West 39th Street close to the Hudson River is an unglamorous road of Port Authority bus ramps, plus traffic from the Javits Center and the ferry station across 12th Avenue.
It’s not a pretty three or so blocks. But this concrete stretch is nothing like it was in the 19th and early 20th centuries, when West 39th Street was one of New York’s bloodiest streets.
Nicknamed “Abattoir Row,” the street was the center of Manhattan’s slaughterhouse district (previously on Mulberry Street), where cattle delivered to the city via ferry or rail line were penned in stockyards before being led into factories, turned into beef, and destined for New York dinner tables.
The earliest abattoirs appeared there in 1850, according to an Evening Post article, which counted 43 separate buildings.
“Running through these cellars will be laid a number of pipes, to carry off the blood and filth to a sewer in the rear. . . .”
“A thorough system of ventilation by means of pipes is embraced in the design, and will do much towards preserving the health of those living in the vicinity,” wrote the Post.
Cattle drives were a familiar site on the far West Side even after the turn of the century.
“Well into the 20th century, cattle drovers would close off 39th, 40th and 41st Streets between 11th and 12th Avenues and herd the cattle from pens to their destinations,” wrote Michael Pollack in his FYI column in the New York Times in 2013.
“Cattle runs across 40th Street continued into the mid-1950s, to a division of Armour & Company a block from the pens. . . . In 1955, an aluminum-sided bridge was built 14 feet above the street so the cattle could walk their last quarter-mile without disrupting traffic.
A cow bridge is one thing—a cow tunnel even more fascinating. To dodge traffic, cattle coming into Manhattan via Hudson River barges in the late 19th century were herded through a tunnel under 12th Avenue to the abattoirs on West 39th Street.
Abattoir Row disappeared in the 1960s. The cow bridge has long since been torn down.
And the tunnels? According to Pollack, “if remnants of the tunnels still exist, they may have disappeared beneath the Javits Center.”
This well-researched article does a deep dive into where the cow tunnels might be and how long ago they were in use.
West 39th Street in the old Tenderloin district also had a dicey reputation—of an entirely different kind.
[Second photo: MCNY, 1938 by Sol Libsohn; 43.131.6.162; third and fourth images: NYPL, “The Manhattan Abattoir,” 1877 by V. L. Kingsbury; fifth image: 1922 ad]
Tags: Abattoir Row New York City, Cattle Stockyards Manhattan, Cow Tunnels Hell's Kitchen, Cow Tunnels Under Manhattan, Hell's Kitchen Stockyards, Slaughterhouse Row NYC, Slaughterhouses in New York City, West 39th Street NYC

October 28, 2016 at 7:54 am |
Very Interesting – All countries start with the ” Workers” of all Trades, and Services……. Loyalty…….xx
October 28, 2016 at 7:58 am |
Visited New York City for two weeks last September 2015 – Wonderful 2 weeks, sightseeing with Historical Tours of New York with Kevin…… unforgetable…..lots of photos. xx
October 28, 2016 at 2:14 pm |
Equally important and just as old is the abattoir district that ran from East 49th Street to East 40th Street between the East River and First Avenue, virtually all of it demolished with the clearing of the site for the United Nations Headquarters. If you’d like to read more about this, see: http://newyorkwanderer.com/dressed-to-kill-part-1/ and
http://newyorkwanderer.com/dressed-to-kill-part-2/
October 28, 2016 at 2:55 pm |
Yes, thanks Ben. And that’s why Tudor City windows don’t face the back!
October 28, 2016 at 11:21 pm |
Just want to say how much I love your posts! I’ve lived in Hell’s Kitchen for over 3 decades, and simply revel in the history here. Thanks for all the fascinating information!
October 29, 2016 at 5:36 am |
Thank you! It’s impossible to run out of fascinating things about Hell’s Kitchen’s past.
October 29, 2016 at 5:12 pm |
im 74 born 1942 till mid 1950s when bounced out for lincole center project (for all the people yeah right) lived in upper west 60s. remember cows or maybe even other animals in area of west sid for as called arbaittors. really remember watching animals at some point and time gogin up ramps cold be seen from street. anyone ealso remember something like this. do not really remember smells, etc or cattle herding, but may not have paid attntion to all facets of this these functions. completely different subject anyone remember raulway express office at 11 or 12 ave. i remeber going there with peo[le to drop off packages. not to much history of this co to read. pics are mmore numerous. if still around could have been in its heyday rival of ups. i unerstand co went under mainly because of management running and $ rip off. thanks all.
October 31, 2016 at 8:18 pm |
I miss the older building perhaps on 11th that had cast stone heads of cattle as decorations mid-building.
October 31, 2016 at 8:18 pm |
PS you could readily see it from the NJ-bound entrance to the Lincoln Tunnel.
March 13, 2017 at 1:43 am |
How did the cattle get to the 1st Avenue abattoirs?
April 1, 2019 at 4:54 am |
[…] makes sense that Rohe operated here; West 36th Street is three blocks from what used to be known as Abattoir Place because of all the slaughterhouses that turned cattle brought to the West Side via rail or ferry […]
November 22, 2022 at 2:52 am |
[…] Row, a battle-torn stretch of West 39th Street between 10th and 11th Avenues, was named after the street battle. Hell’s Kitchen, a scrawny […]
December 16, 2022 at 8:25 pm |
My grandmother grew up on 39th and 11th Ave. I knew of the gangs, the deadly police assisted race riots, the deaths of my relatives from diphtheria, the deadly street level trains but this is new.