He’d already published Oliver Twist and Nicholas Nickleby, among other novels, poems, and plays.
So in January 1842, he did what any best-selling writer would do: he went on tour, sailing to America to visit the young country and make a stop in the teeming city of New York.
Unfortunately, he was less than impressed. The tour “quickly degenerated into an experience of mutual disdain and recriminations,” explains a New York Times article.
In New York, he dined at Delmonico’s, visited alms houses and lunatic asylums, checked out the infamous Tombs prison and amusement garden Niblo’s, and hung out at a dance hall called Almack’s popular with the city’s black population.
“This is the place: these narrow ways, diverging to the right and left, and reeking everywhere with dirt and filth,” Dickens wrote in American Notes, which recounted his trip.
“Debauchery has made the very houses prematurely old. See how the rotten beams are tumbling down, and how the patched and broken windows seem to scowl dimly, like eyes that have been hurt in drunken frays.”
Despite his disillusionment, Dickens returned to New York in 1868 to give a series of lectures at Steinway Hall on 14th Street.
He was treated like a rock star (lecture tickets were tough to get, as the sketch above shows) and came away with a positive view of the city and country.
“How astounded I have been by the amazing changes that I have seen around me on every side…changes in the rise of vast new cities, changes in the growth of older cities almost out of recognition, changes in the graces and amenities of life, changes in the Press, without whose advancement no advancement can be made anywhere.”
[1827 Five Points sketch, via the NYPL Digital Collection]