Before it was the Limelight, this Chelsea church appeared in an 1890 painting

“A Spring Morning” is Impressionist loveliness by Childe Hassam—the New York City-based painter who created enchanting street scenes out of loose brushstrokes and plays on darkness and light.

Hassam’s work is also a time machine back to an earlier New York. This one takes us to 1890, just after Hassam settled in Gotham and began painting out of a studio on Fifth Avenue and 17th Street.

He didn’t go far to capture this scene. On West 20th Street looking toward Sixth Avenue, two women of wealth are about to alight a carriage; two more trail behind on the brownstone steps. A well-dressed male pedestrian walks behind another pedestrian, a woman, who shields herself and her children from the warm spring sun with an umbrella.

This stretch of Chelsea has long since lost its cachet as an elite brownstone row; it was already going out of fashion when Hassam painted it, thanks to the increasing presence of commerce in the neighborhood and the elevated train traveling up and down Sixth Avenue, which Hassam obscures.

But unlike the rest of this former residential block, two of the buildings in the painting remain with us.

First, the gold-domed tower in the center of the painting: It was part of the block-long Hugh O’Neill Dry Goods Emporium, one of the legendary retail establishments on the Sixth Avenue part of the Ladies Mile shopping district. Today, it’s the O’Neill Building, a luxury condo residence.

Across Sixth Avenue from the domed tower is another tall structure, part of a Gothic-style church (above, in 1876; below, in 1907) that looks like it belongs in the country. This was the Church of the Holy Communion, completed in 1845 by Richard Upjohn. In its day, this Episcopalian church was one of the most elite in New York City.

Those of us born in the 20th century, however, might know it better as the Limelight—the infamous dance club that opened in the 1980s and finished its run as a nightclub haunt in the early 2000s. Today, I believe it’s been divided into retail spaces.

Childe Hassam couldn’t have imagined how the church, whose parish disbanded in the 1970s, would be repurposed a century after he painted this serene scene of privileged Gilded Age New Yorkers.

[First image: Wikiart; second image: Miller’s New York as It Is, 1876; third image: MCNY, 1907, x2010.11.8720]

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20 Responses to “Before it was the Limelight, this Chelsea church appeared in an 1890 painting”

  1. philip j bruno Says:

    good article. though the church and O’Neil building are across from each other,not next. I enjoy your posts.

    • jms Says:

      This may be explained by the painting being from the vantage point, as the post states, of “West 20th Street looking toward Sixth Avenue”; hence the view is from east of both structures.

    • ephemeralnewyork Says:

      Thanks, and yes you are correct…O’Neill’s was (and still is) across Sixth Avenue.

  2. Paulette J Weiser Says:

    It seems incongruous a Presbyterian church would become a dance club! However, it remains standing, in use and still part of the visible history of NYC. The Hassam painting is so beautiful and evocative! Thanks for sharing!

    • ephemeralnewyork Says:

      Thanks! It does seem incongruous, but I think that was a big part of the Limelight’s appeal.

  3. andrewalpern Says:

    The survival of that church building is astounding. Very few such structures survive the relocation or collapse of their congregations except when sold to another congregation. A church interior is a very specialized space that doesn’t lend itself readily to conversion to other uses.

    • ephemeralnewyork Says:

      That’s probably why various businesses in the church building have failed since the Limelight closed. I think it might have been a gym, then a pizza restaurant, then sort of a Gothic mini-mall setup. I love its country village look…imagine all the well-tended brownstones along 20th Street in the mid-19th century when it was completed.

      • andrewalpern Says:

        Yes, that part of town was very different back when that church was new, and for 40 years after. Then the neighborhood became increasingly commercial, and then pretty tawdry. The gold domes on Sixth Avenue in Hassam’s painting disappeared, but not many years ago they were recreated and the area has had a resurgence.

  4. Jimmie Says:

    Yes the painting doesnt make too much sense as the Church and O’Neill building are across from each other…

  5. countrypaul Says:

    I used to do freelance work in the area and often wondered what was going on; it definintely was not church-like!

    • ephemeralnewyork Says:

      Definitely not, especially in the 1990s, when it was central to a gruesome murder of a club kid/drug dealer.

  6. Bookwoman Says:

    My husband and I had an early date at Limelight in 1983, but we went at the very un-hip time of 10 pm, instead of after midnight when all the cool kids showed up.
    (And BTW it’s spelled cachet, with a ‘t’.)

    • ephemeralnewyork Says:

      Ah yes, will fix. And a 10 p.m. date at the Limelight in 1983 means you lucked out and missed all the bridge and tunnel crowds.

  7. velovixen Says:

    When I returned to NYC, my first job was about two doors away from the church. Not long after, the Limelight opened.

    When I looked at Hassam’s image of ladies alighting from a carriage, I thought of those revelers who emerged from stretch limos into the club. And I wondered what Hassam, who was so good at evoking the mood of a scene through its light, would have made of the music and dance space.

    • ephemeralnewyork Says:

      The ladies alighting from carriages and the clubgoers emerging from stretch limos: what a wonderful comparison!

  8. Roosevelt Island Historical Society » Wednesday, June 14, 2023 – A SWEET STRUCTURE THAT NO LONGER SERVES A RELIGION Says:

    […] Before it was the Limelight,this Chelsea church appeared in an1890 painting […]

  9. Some Small Things Says:

    I remember clearly the day I saw that Limelight had turned into a mall. Sigh.

  10. Marco Romano Says:

    We were not professional clubbers but went to Limelight once. It was the worst club that we ever went to. The crowd was not chill and the music was not like the Paradise Garage. Needless to say we did not stay long.

  11. John Says:

    I remember being quite surprised when that church turned into a nightclub. I had never seen that happen before, and I haven’t seen it since. I checked it out one night, and it was a very strange experience. I guess that was supposed to be part of its appeal, but having been brought up in the church, I just couldn’t wrap my head around what was happening. On one level crowds of people were partying a la Studio 54, yeah, ok, but on another it was really blasphemous. It hurt somewhere deep. It was straight out of a Fellini movie or something, and soon I left and though I passed it often I never went back. Too strange. I was glad when the Limelight closed.

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