Before it was the Limelight, this Chelsea church appeared in an 1890 painting

“A Spring Morning” is Impressionist loveliness by Childe Hassam—the New York City-based painter who created enchanting street scenes out of loose brushstrokes and plays on darkness and light.

Hassam’s work is also a time machine back to an earlier New York. This one takes us to 1890, just after Hassam settled in Gotham and began painting out of a studio on Fifth Avenue and 17th Street.

He didn’t go far to capture this scene. On West 20th Street looking toward Sixth Avenue, two women of wealth are about to alight a carriage; two more trail behind on the brownstone steps. A well-dressed male pedestrian walks behind another pedestrian, a woman, who shields herself and her children from the warm spring sun with an umbrella.

This stretch of Chelsea has long since lost its cachet as an elite brownstone row; it was already going out of fashion when Hassam painted it, thanks to the increasing presence of commerce in the neighborhood and the elevated train traveling up and down Sixth Avenue, which Hassam obscures.

But unlike the rest of this former residential block, two of the buildings in the painting remain with us.

First, the gold-domed tower in the center of the painting: It was part of the block-long Hugh O’Neill Dry Goods Emporium, one of the legendary retail establishments on the Sixth Avenue part of the Ladies Mile shopping district. Today, it’s the O’Neill Building, a luxury condo residence.

Across Sixth Avenue from the domed tower is another tall structure, part of a Gothic-style church (above, in 1876; below, in 1907) that looks like it belongs in the country. This was the Church of the Holy Communion, completed in 1845 by Richard Upjohn. In its day, this Episcopalian church was one of the most elite in New York City.

Those of us born in the 20th century, however, might know it better as the Limelight—the infamous dance club that opened in the 1980s and finished its run as a nightclub haunt in the early 2000s. Today, I believe it’s been divided into retail spaces.

Childe Hassam couldn’t have imagined how the church, whose parish disbanded in the 1970s, would be repurposed a century after he painted this serene scene of privileged Gilded Age New Yorkers.

[First image: Wikiart; second image: Miller’s New York as It Is, 1876; third image: MCNY, 1907, x2010.11.8720]